Build WiNode 4
We have tired to keep this build-guide suitable for beginners or those of you who just want to know how to build from a kit.
Welcome to your Winode4 in kit form. We used to sell a Wimin and a Wimax but but we have now combined the two and made a Winode4. You will find in your anti-static bag that you have a whole heap of components, a PCB and a raft with IC’s on. Within an hour of soldering you will have a fully working Winode4.
If you are new to soldering and want some tips – have a look at this guide. Building a Winode is just a case of replicating the steps shown in the following picture sequence – CLICK ON PHOTO TO ENLARGE. No real electronics experience needed – just basic soldering skills.
Tools you will need the following before you begin:
Soldering iron – always solder in a well-ventilated room
Solder – 0.5mm diameter 60/40 is best
Solder sucker in case you make a mistake
Side Cutters – to cut the excess component leads off
Programming cable – you can buy one from us for £6 or if you have an FTDI cable or similar you may use that.
Access to a computer. Once you have built your Winode you will need access to a computer so you can program it with your application.
Step 1. Kit List Identify Components in the Anti-Static Bag
The bag contains all you need to build your Winode but first check you have all the components before you begin. If you find anything missing we apologize. We will post missing parts out to you if you email us at firstname.lastname@example.org.
Step 2 – Back of Board – Micro SD and Finding Place for Real Time Clock
You will find that we have soldered on the micro SD Socket the back of the PCB. Also please note you will see a tiny white dot on the pcb, this is where the top left corner of the RTC (real time clock) will be soldered
Step 3 – Soldering the Real Time Clock
On the RTC you will see a small dimple in the top left corner. The RTC placement on the board is indicated with a small white dot in the top left corner too, so make sure they line up.
Step 3b– Component Legs
(Demo photo shows a blue board but principle is the same)The first lot of components we are going to solder to the board are the resistors. All components are fitted from the front side of the board, with the legs coming out on the underside of the board like this. The legs will differ in length depending on the component. This picture shows the legs of the resistors. If you bend them slightly to the sides they are less likely to fall out as you turn the board over. We always solder from the underside of the board.
Step 3c – Soldering the Legs
(Demo photo shows a blue board but principle is the same)In order to secure all the components in place you need to solder directly onto the board. In soldering you are not trying to melt the component metal, its not like welding. You are creating a connection between the board and the component via a trail of solder. Use as little solder as necessary, as too much solder could very easily bring about a short on the board which will make the board or specific parts of it not work correctly.
Step 3d – Cutting the Legs
(Demo photo shows a blue board but principle is the same)
Once soldered, cut each legs off with a good pair of side-wire cutters ensuring that you get as close to board as possible.
Step 3e – Soldering Points
(Demo photo shows a blue board but principle is the same)
You should have a clean dot of solder once you have cut the legs off. If your solder has run or is excessive then you should melt the solder point with the soldering iron and use solder sucker to suck up the solder. You will follow this soldering procedure for all the components. Some will have longer legs than others so you won’t always have to cut excess off. Remember too that you insert from the front side of the board and solder on the back on the board.
Step 4 -Adding the 10K Resistors
We are going to start off with the 10K resistors, there are eight in your kit. You will see on the pcb white lettering denoting where the resistors sit. It is vital that you put the right resistors in the correct place on the board. The 10K’s have colour bands in this sequence, brown, black, black, red with an extra brown band at the end as it standard on all resistors. Six of the 10K’s run in a strip down the right side of the board. One goes in the top right corner and the last one goes in the bottom left corner. You need to identify the 10K’s correctly. It is also good practice to place all resistors in the same direction reading colours from left to right with the last colour being the brown band. Bend both resistor legs as close to the ‘body’ as possible and put each leg in each hole. You will then need to turn the board over to solder, and once soldered you will need to snip the legs off.
Step 5 – Adding the 100K Resistors
Now add the 100K resistor, there should only be one in your kit. It goes towards the bottom left corner of the board. Be careful NOT to confuse it with the two remaining resistors the 100R and the 2K. The 100K banding is brown black black orange with an extra brown band at the end. You will then need to turn the board over to solder, and once soldered you will need to snip the legs off.
Step 6 – Adding the 2K Resistors
Now add the 2K resistor, there should only be one in your kit. It goes at the top of the row of 10K’s Be careful NOT to confuse it with the two remaining resistors the and the 100R The 2K banding is red black black brown with an extra brown band at the end. You will then need to turn the board over to solder, and once soldered you will need to snip the legs off.
Step 7 – Adding the 100R Resistors
Now you only have the 100R resistor, to fit and its banding is brown black black black with an extra brown band at the end. It goes at the upper edge of the board. You will then need to turn the board over to solder, and once soldered you will need to snip the legs off.
Step 8 – Preparing Wire Bits
You will see in the top right corner where the lone 10K sits that there is a place marked for two 2R resistors. Well we are not going to fit 2R’s we are going to fit two piece of plain wire. I suggest you use a cut off end wire from one of the resistors you have just soldered. Bend the wire into a U shape 7mm between the bends.
Step 9 – Solder the wire bits
Solder the two wire links into the positions marked 2R.
Step 10 – The Glass Diodes
The glass diodes have a thicker black band at one end and you need to note this as the PCB will indicate to you which way the glass diode needs to lie on the board.
Step 11- The First Glass Diodes Position on the Board
The pcb will indicate to you which direction the thicker band goes as it will have a thicker white bank printed on the board. Refer to photo. The dark band on the glass diode lies in the same direction as the stripe on the right hand side of the legend.
Step 12 – The Second Glass Diodes Position on the Board
The second glass diode sits near to the row of 10K resistors on the board as shown in photo
Step 13 – Overview of Glass Diodes Board
This picture shows what the board looks like so far with the glass diodes in place.
Step 14 – Adding the 100nF’s
Now add the eleven 100nF ceramic capacitors. They are beige but in some kits they might be blue (they are both the same). They fit on the board in various places. Six down right side of the board, with another two further down that side. There are two either side of the 100K resistors with the final one at the bottom left side of the board.
Step 15 – Socket Notch on Board
In order to solder the sockets correctly, (the sockets will house the IC’s) you need to be sure you understand that there is a “notch” symbol on the pcb as you can see in the photo. The next step will explain why it is important that you understand the notch markings on the board.
Step 15b – Notches on sockets
You have a 28 pin socket, a 16 pin socket and an 8 pin socket in your kit. (The photo shows two 28 pin sockets – but the winode kit will only have one 28 pin socket). The picture shows that the socket has a “notched-end”. Once you are sure you know which end is notched you can find the “notched-end” layout on the pcb and then solder it in place.
Step 16–Solder Sockets on Board
Solder all three sockets onto the board, making sure to line the “notch end”on the socket with the “notch end” on the board. It’s best to tack diagonally opposite corners to hold the socket in place whilst the rest of the pins are soldered. Make sure they are fitted flat on to the board. These components legs are so short you will not need to snip any excess off.
Step 17 – 16 MhZ Crystal
Please read Step 18 too before you solder the crystal in place. The crystals in this kit have an thin plastic insulating pad on them which means they are safe to lie flat on the pcb without fear of causing a short. Place on the board and like the resistors if you bend the legs to the side a little once this will position the component on the board so it will not fall out as you turn the board over to solder.
Step 18–Crystal Raised Off The Board
Just in case your crystal does not have a insulating pad then you will need to make sure it is slightly raised off the board as shown in the photo.
Step 19–Overview of Crystal on the Board
This photo shows the board so far, now with the crystal is in place.
Step 20 – Fitting the 22pF & 10pF
It is very easy to get the next two sets of capacitors mixed up. In your kit you will find two 22pF ceramic capacitors that sit either side of the crystal. They are marked with the figure 22 and have black ‘flashes’ on the top. You will see that the two 10pF’s have a black ‘flash’ too but they have the number 10 printed on them.
Step 21– Fitting the 22pF
Making sure you have selected the two 22pF’s, fit them either side of the crystal. Again turn the board over and solder and cut the excess off.
Step 22– Fitting the 10pF
Making sure you have the two 10pF’s fit them towards the bottom of the board. Again turn the board over and solder and cut the excess off.
Step 23 -Note about 3v3
The 3v3 regulator will look like this photo when you open your bag. In order for it to sit correctly on the board, you need to pull it’s middle leg out away from the flat edge.
Step 23b – Regulator’s Leg Bent
It is now ready to be inserted into the board.
Step 23c- Position of the 3v3
Make sure the flat edge of the component lines up with the flat edge of the white drawing on the board. Again turn the board over and solder and so on.
Step 24 –RF Module and Flux Pen
You stand a better chance of soldering the RF module if you use a flux pen, but it is by no means essential and it is more than possible to solder without one, it just makes it a little easier that’s all.
Step 25 – Position Of RF Module
Ok, so before you begin to solder in the RF module we need to apologise to you . It’s a tight fit getting the module in without it covering up the hole that the LED’s leg goes into. For this reason you have to be slightly careful with your positioning of the RF module. Sorry! If you look to the photo I have partially covered up the hole the LED leg will fit into.
Step 26 – Soldering the RF Module
Ensure that the RF module is the correct way on the board with the 10MhZ crystal lining up with the edge of the board. Be sure that each pad lines (as best you can with the LED thing going on) and fill up with each ‘bucket’ on the RF module with lots of solder. Be a little careful when soldering the top left corner ‘bucket’ because if you overfill it with solder, you will fill the hole where the antenna sits.
Step 27 – Antenna Ariel To Board
Look for the white lettings ANT written on the board. This is where you need to insert the antenna. Again solder underneath and snip any wire excess off with side wire cutters.
Step 28 – Soldering the LED
It is important that the LED goes on the board in a particular way as the LED has polarity. You need to put the shorter of the two legs (the negative) through the hole that is nearer the edge of the board. It is marked with a small minus sign. The other hole marked with a plus sign is obviously for the positive leg. Solder and cut as usual.
Step 29- Wonky SILs
Before we fit the next two components, I just wanted to show you what we don’t want to achieve. You will see that the SILS have not been inserted very well and as a consequence they slope. You need to ensure that you solder them in straight, else you will find it difficult to fit any shields you might want to attach to your Winode. If you have a shield to hand and attach that, you are guaranteed that the SILS will align.
Step 30- 8 SIL
The 8 SIL is fitted from D08 to REF (leaving SCL and SDA empty).
Step 31- 6 SIL’s
As for the previous step ensuring you fix them straight.
Step 32-Soldering the 3pin straight header
Solder as you would any other component.
Step 33- Right-Angled Header
The header serves two functions. It supplies the board with power but is also essential, as this is how you programme the board. You can plug in an FTDI cable or you can use Winode programme lead which you can buy from us here. Again turn the board over and solder and cut off excess.
Step 34- Electrolytic Capacitors
In your bag you will find three electrolytic capacitors, now you need to look carefully at them as they are not all the same. Ignore the voltage information. What you are looking for are two 100uf , and one10uf. These values will be written in white lettering on the side. You will also note, that, like the LED there is polarity with this component and it is important that the positive leg goes in the correct hole on the board.
Step 35 -Two 100uF’s Position On The Board
On the board you will see the white markings showing a circle with a + sign next to one of the holes. The hole with the + sign is the hole the positive (long) leg goes into. Again turn the board over and solder, and cut off excess.
Step 36 – One 10uF’s Position On The Board
Make sure you have the correct leg in the correct hole on the board and solder as usual.
Step 37 – Sliding the Terminal Blocks Together
In your kit you will find two terminal blocks. You will need to connect the two together by sliding them so they lock into place.
Step 38 – Completed Terminal Blocks
This picture shows the blocks ready to solder to the board
Step 39– Terminal Blocks on Board
This picture shows the blocks ready to solder to the board. Be sure that the silver connection points that run along the side of the terminal run along the edge of the board as shown in the photo.
Step 40– Switch
Fit the switch making sure you use lots of solder on the underside as the solder holes are quite big.
Step 41 – Super Capacitor
Before you fit this component you need to make sure you know which way it sits on the board as the super capacitor has polarity. If you look closely at the legs you will see a circle with a minus sign on one of them. This is the negative leg and it needs to go in the hole on the pcb that is marked with a minus sign (-).
Step 42 – Super Capacitor on the board
This picture shows where it sits on the board.
Step 43– 5v Regulator
The 5 V regulator is the final component left to fit. Make sure you get it the right way round on the board with the “stepped” side facing in towards the board. It has very thick and strong legs so be careful when you cut them as they fly off! Be careful to get it straight too as it has a tendency to lean. Again turn the board over and solder.
TESTING THE BOARD
Step 44 – Plug In
Now that all the components are in in place we need to do a series of tests to make sure the board has been built correctly and that the voltage readings are correct. It is essential that we test the voltage, if we don’t and there is a fault on the board we run the risk of damaging the IC’s and they are costly items to replace. Plug in the programme lead (or an FTDI cable) by attaching one end of it to your computer and fit the other end to the header. (if you don’t recall where the header is, refer to Step 33.) The programme cable does two things, it gets power to the board and it also allows us to programme the IC’s that are on the board .The small blue LED will light-up on the programme lead and stay on, thus indicating the lead is working.
Step 45 -Voltage Test One – Pin 28 and Pin 7
Set the multimeter to DC and we are ready to do the first test. The first test will measure the voltage between pin